Friday, June 29, 2007

All good things must come to a beginning...

...and I've been pre-partying. It's tailgating before a football game or drinking before you go to out to the bars. I've spent my last week in Prague on a couple of training rides across the countryside getting used to my new bike; my home for the next couple of months.

Rafting down the dam bypass along the Elb River, near Roudnice nad Labem.

Last weekend I left Prague for Zubrnice, a small town in the mountains near the German border. My friend Greg's choir, Kakofone, was performing at a small Czech folk festival, and they were the special guests. The plan was for me to ride to Zubrnice while Greg traveled with his choir (and bike) and meet just before the performance. This happened.

Roudnice nad Labem

The choir sounded great singing in an old church, and everyone in attendance seemed pleased. We soon made our way to the town pub and began eating and drinking. This compromised the next part of our plan, which was to awaken by the dawn's early light and ride back to Prague. This didn't happen.



The other lasting effect of the trip was a painful reminder that long-distance bicycling should only be enjoyed after one has properly trained. I had not properly trained. On Sunday night, after getting out of the shower, my quads became so tight I was unable to walk. I think this was partially due to dehydration, but mostly to the fact that I hadn't ridden a bike more than 1km during the last 4 years.



Early morning in Zubrnice

What castle is complete without free-range peacocks?


Chateau Ploskovice




Bad weather kept me in Prague longer than expected this week. Winds were blowing at 50km/hr (gusts to 80), so my next training ride was delayed 'till Wednesday. In the meantime, I wandered around Prague revisiting the sights and finding a few new places along the way. Greg had mentioned a vineyard in the city he'd found a few weeks back, and that sounded interesting. I stopped by Viniční Altán on Tuesday, and sure enough, they've got a couple of acres on the hillside, right in the city. The neighborhood is called Vinohrady, which literally translated means "wine castle," or more colloquially, "royal vineyards." The rumor goes that Charles IV himself established the site in 1358, making it the oldest vineyard in Prague (and today, possibly the only vineyard remaining in Prague). They grow pinot noir, pinot gris, reisling and Dornfelder, with an on-site production limited to about 150 cases.




Kost Castle


Trosky Castle

I finally left Prague Wednesday afternoon and took the train north to the town of Mlada Boleslav, where I would begin a castle tour through the aptly named Český Ráj (Czech Paradise). Seriously, if you ever visit the Czech Republic and have a couple of days to spend outside of the cities, hike or bike through Český Ráj. It is one of the most unique natural areas I've ever seen, and it's full of castles. You really can't go wrong.



Few things feel better than arriving at the train station 30 minutes before the last train of the night departs for Prague. Drinking a cold beer and stretching after a day of riding is one of them.

Train rides are always relaxing when you're headed home. After about 30 minutes of wind and driving rain, this rainbow appeared over Prague. It stood in stark contrast to the gloom of the Soviet-era panel buildings below.

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Seasonally affected

Looking south from Letná Park toward New Town (Nové město; a bit of a misnomer considering it was established in the 14th century), Prague appears peaceful - even calm. This probably isn't what you'd say if you were standing on Charles Bridge.

Prague Castle at 7:00pm, looking east.

The tallest statue of Stalin ever built (50m) loomed ominously over Prague in Letná Park, ca. 1955. Seven years later it was blown apart with 800kg of explosives. Apparently it was not popular. More info

The base of the statue still stands prominently on a ridge above the Vltava River. It remains a symbol of the deceased giant that was communism in the Czech Republic, but now it also signifies the power of perseverance and the ability to peacefully overcome what at times must have seemed an insurmountable obstacle. see Velvet Revolution

This metronome was erected in 1991 to fill the space once occupied by the Stalin statue. Some of the best views of the city are found along the this ridge.

The cold, snowy Prague I left in January is gone. It has been replaced by summer and life, green trees and a warm sun that never seems to set. Tourists have inundated this place, making daily transit difficult, but often visually appealing. I've got to recommend the immediate seasonal change associated with some inter-equatorial travel. On both occasions, I've been lucky enough to leave winter behind, arriving only hours later to summer clothes, beaches, and cherry orchards ripening below Prague Castle. My friends complain because it's hot, but I'm happy in shorts and sunscreen.

At lot has changed during the last 5 months. 25 January, looking north along the Vltava River.

18 June

25 January. Charles Bridge and Prague Castle.

18 June

25 January. A busy Charles Bridge in the winter.

18 June. Although it may not look like it, it was 5:10am when I took this picture. Thirty minutes later there must have been 50 people on the bridge, and artists were beginning to set up their stalls. At 7 I saw the first tourist bus, and then it's busy 'till well after dark.

I arrived on Sunday in the late afternoon, and Greg met me at the airport (well, met implies arriving around the same time, but he made it there eventually). We headed into town to drop my things at his flat and then went for dinner, after which I slept well. I spent Monday and Tuesday shopping around town for bikes, and found a good deal on Tuesday afternoon. Wednesday I spent an equal amount of money on accessories, and today the bike is finally coming together. That's a good thing, because I leave tomorrow for a three-day trip to familiarize myself with the bike and watch Greg's choir perform in a small town about 40 miles northwest of Prague. With any luck, I'll get another ride in early next week before we leave Prague in 8 days.

My new wheels.

Panoramic view from Petřín Park looking north and east toward Prague Castle (Hradčany), the Vltava River, the Jewish Quarter (Josefov) and Old Town (Staré město)(L-R).

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Old Zealand

My last few weeks in New Zealand have passed quickly. I'm writing from Auckland, where I arrived yesterday morning, after four months in Blenheim. In conclusion to what has to be one of the longest official harvests in Marlborough history, we pressed our final load of pinot grapes on Friday 8 June, nearly three months after receiving our first fruit.

My time in New Zealand has been wonderful. I've met great people and shared some amazing experiences. If I'm lucky, I'll see some of them this September in Napa for another harvest. I've also been able to save enough money to avoid working for the next 3 or 4 months while I bicycle through Southeastern Europe with a couple of friends from college. We're hoping to be on the road before the end of June. I've learned a bit about making white wine, seen the Southern Cross, and furthered my opinion that it's nearly impossible to drink a gallon of milk within an hour and keep it down for an additional hour (see below: warning, video involves vomiting and hilarity). I've found what I was looking for in France, and I only had to travel 13,000 miles to find it. But the real adventure is only beginning. Thank you to everyone back home who has supported me and accepted my paucity of personal emails. Thank you to everyone here in New Zealand who has made this experience one of the best of my life.

And now, without further ado, Vince and Josh learn that the Gallon Challenge isn't something to be taken lightly.